Naved Nasir is the head chef at Dishoom, the Covent Garden branch of the popular Bombay street food eatery which has been talked about all over town since it opened pre-2012. The reason I wanted to interview the chef at its heart has to do with London’s recent interest in the benefits of gluten-free dining, because Dishoom prides itself on offering some of the best gluten-free options in the capital, and because I wanted to find out, from the horses mouth, what the best gluten-free dish on Dishoom’s menu is.
Dishoom describes itself as a Bombay cafe, can you explain a bit more about the food typical to Bombay?
The original Bombay – or Irani – cafés were opened in the late 19th century by immigrants from Persia. They were the real cornerstones of early 20th century communities, they were open all day, every day, and served people of all backgrounds – unusually, at that time, when society advised the mixing of castes and religions. In fact, they were the first places to popularize eating out for the common man in Bombay – they were very affordable, welcoming, and democratic places. At their peak, there were around 400 of these cafes, but now only a handful remain. Dishoom tries to bring a little of the spirit of these old Bombay cafés to London, and our menu takes inspiration from our favourite Irani cafes – the Chicken Berry Biryani pays homage to the Britannia Café’s Berry Pulao, and the Keema Pau is much as the one still served in Café Olympia.
Our food is also inspired more broadly by the food of Bombay – a real melting-pot community – and our menu brings together its diverse cultural influences. Dishes such as our kababs, Haleem, Biryani and Lamb Raan are typically Islamic, whereas popular street snacks such as Bhel, Pau Bhaji, and Vada Pau have Hindu origins. Akuri, Bun Maska and Omelettes are classic Parsi (or Irani) dishes.
Indian food is generally seen to be quite vegetarian friendly, but your menu also features a lot of gluten-free options, is this something which is also typical to Indian cuisine?
Most Indian food is naturally gluten-free. Many traditional Indian dishes are made with ingredients such as lentils, meat and rice and these are all gluten- free options. Some people might not be fully aware of gluten sensitivities, and have adopted food habits depending on their geographical location in India, and the local availability of foods. For instance, it is thought coeliac presence in south India is low, but the rarity is attributed to the fact that rice, and not wheat is the dietary staple.
How do you choose/come up with what’s on the menu?
As our guests are very loyal to our current menu, we don’t change our dishes that regularly. However, occasionally we do create special set menus or individual dishes to celebrate cultural events throughout the year, such as during Eid, Diwali or Christmas. When any new dish is suggested or tasted, our inspiration is always linked back to Bombay’s culture, history and people.
What dish would you recommend for a first time customer to Dishoom?
I would encourage all to try our signature dish, the House Black Daal. Daal is nutritious, flavoursome and one of the principle foods of the Indian subcontinent. It’s a comforting staple, a dish that represents the food of the people. It has a slow, cooking process which brings out its rich flavours and is perfect with rice.
What is your favourite dish on the menu?
My favourite small plate would have to be Bhel, a savoury Indian snack made from puffed rice, sev, and fresh pomegranate, tomato, onion and lime. It’s often associated with the beaches of Bombay, and it has spread to all regions of India where it has been modified to suit the local food availability. Out of the grills, which are also gluten free, the Dishoom Chicken Tikka, a popular and well-known dish among many, is also a firm favourite of mine. The secret to this succulent dish lies within marinating the meat with yoghurt and spices.
What are the benefits of gluten free eating?
For those with gluten sensitivities, eliminating gluten from the diet can reduce stomach upsets, abdominal cramping and bloating. It has been thought that this, in turn, leads to an improved mood, better focus and even clearer thinking! However, coeliac disease is a term not to be used lightly, and those suffering from the intolerance should seek medical or nutritional advice if necessary.
What is your most popular dish and is it gluten free?
Our grills are a favourite amongst guests, particularly the Lamb Chops and Murgh Malai. These Bademiya style grilled food is the food we really love eating ourselves! The chicken and mattar paneer rubys are also popular and best served with roomali roti. Both the grills and murrays can be enjoyed by those who are gluten intolerant.
Is anything on the menu signature to Dishoom?
Aside from the House Black Daal, I would say our Shoreditch special, the Lamb Raan is signature to Dishoom. The dish can be traced back to Alexander the Great (Sikander) who laid a banquet after defeating, and befriending the Indian King, Paurava of Takshila. This banquet included a roasted, tender leg of lamb. We marinate our leg of lamb in in chilli, garlic, and ginger, leave to braise overnight with spices, flame-grill, slice and dress with fresh lime. It’s tender, juicy and delicious!
Eaten by Emilee 